La Dive Bouteille ® www.divebouteille.com

Le Gastronaute (117, rue du Cherche-Midi, Paris VIe)

Natural winemaking is not just the domain of a few small-scale nonconformists. Some of the most revered appellations also have dedicated practitioners, among them a producer of the select Romanée-Conti wines of Burgundy, the Champagne producer Anselme Selosse and a number of respected vineyards in the Beaujolais, Bordeaux and Alsace regions. "There are now about 200 natural winemakers in France, while 30 years ago there were perhaps 15," says Marc Sibard, who runs Caves Augé, a large central-Paris wine store where natural wines represent about 70% of all the bottles in stock...